The Wind and the Swell的意思|示意

There was a great smooth swell upon the sea. the wind blowing steady and gentle from the south there was no contrariety between that and the current and the billows rose and fell unbroken.

这时，海面上荡漾着大片平滑的微波，轻柔的南风不停地吹来，方向与微波刚好一致，因此将原来的微波吹成了一片一片起伏的巨浪。

The relationship between local mean wind speeds and swell significant wave heights for long period has quantitatively estimated from the superposition equation of energy.

并从能量叠加平衡方程，近似定量估计出大洋中长历时涌浪有效波高与局地平均风速的关系。

Swell propagating in the absence of wind is simulated with reasonable results, including the change of wave parameters and spectral structures.

对于涌浪在无风下的传播，模拟结果合理，包括波参量及谱结构的变化。

The concepts of wind wave and swell, and the division of them in the numerical calculation of ocean wave are explained as well.

文章还对波浪数值计算中风浪和涌浪的概念及其划分作了阐述。

Starting tomorrow there is a swell coming to the east coast. Tuesday and Wednesday should have head-high waves, but the wind will be quite strong those days.

从明天开始东岸线会有一些好的浪，星期二到星期三可能会有头高的浪但因为风大浪可能受到影响。